How to Style Fine Wavy Hair

Clients often ask about the best way to style fine, wavy hair.  It does not need to be a challenge!  Here are some answers to a few of the more common questions asked by clients at my salon.

What can I do if my hair is flat and oily at the root when I wake up in the morning and I feel the need to shampoo my hair?

Here are two possible solutions that could work great for you.  First, avoid using shampoo.  Often, shampoo dries out the scalp and causes scalp glands to produce more oil creating an oily scalp and a potentially unhealthy scalp condition.  Try using conditioner to cleanse instead. Gently massage the conditioner into your scalp with your fingertips, and rinse.

If after two weeks your scalp does not seem less oily, then try this second approach. Apply conditioner to wet hair from the mid-shaft through the ends of hair only. To the roots only, apply sulfate free shampoo and massage gently into the scalp.  Rinse out shampoo and conditioner together. This will protect the ends of your hair from getting overly dried out while more effectively cleaning your scalp. Cleansing every other day is another good option to consider.

How do I get more curls out of my wavy hair?

Here is what you do.  During your shower, do not rinse out conditioner.  How much you leave in will depend on how much frizz you normally have. While your hair is still dripping wet, use fingers to comb through the divided top and bottom sections of your hair. Apply a styling product like Surface Jump Mousse, Wella Curl Craft Mousse, or Biolage Medium Hold m Mousse. You could also try Sculpting Cream by Oribe or Biolage Deep Smoothing Leave-In Cream. Use your fingers to apply product to the hair in divided sections. I recommend using twice the amount of product you normally use because some of the product will be removed during the drying time.

To dry your dripping wet, product-laden hair, bend over with your head pointing toward the ground. Use a smooth pillowcase to gather hair not a bath towel if possible. While still bending over, push and scrunch hair in the pillowcase making an upward motion toward your scalp. When your hair seems sufficiently dry, stand upright and clip the pillowcase around your neck to keep your wet to protect clothing from wet hair as it dries. Avoid the urge to wrap your hair up in a towel. This will take the wave out. Most importantly, DO NOT touch hair as it dries. This will cause frizz and take the wave out as well.

Learn to Moisturize Your Curls

During the year hair can become dehydrated from exposure to the seasonal elements . To keep your hair healthy and hydrated all year round , you need to take these few simple steps to keep your curls soft and manageable.

First:  Apply a deep condition mask two to three times a week

This may sound excessive but hydrating hair by using a deep conditioning treatment two to three times a week is an important step in summer hair maintenance. A deep conditioning masque is normally left on your hair for 15-30 minutes (maximum of 60) to penetrate the hair strands. Apply the deep conditioning mask to the ends and mid-shaft of your hair and then work into the root area.  Partially rinse, keeping 50% of the conditioner in to coat and protect hair from all of the drying elements that summer can bring.   Be sure to look for products that contain moisture-enhancing ingredients like olive, sesame or sunflower oils, and Glycerin.  Products like Orbie Signature Beautiful Color Masque and Matrix Biolage Aqua-Immersion Crème Masque contain some of these ingredients and are generally good choices.

Second: Use a moisturizing shampoo

Some shampoos can strip hair of its natural oils and moisture. To rejuvenate and hydrate summer hair, be sure to use a sulfate-free shampoo that is specifically designed for dry, curly hair. Just be sure to purchase a moisturizing shampoo that does not contain sulfates in the list of ingredients. As a general rule I always recommend that my curly girls shampoo only when their scalp feels like it needs it. Normally, I only shampoo my hair once a month when my scalp starts to feel dirty.  My hair stays clean, soft and beautiful following the moisturizing treatment I outlined in the first step.

Third: Never rub your hair vigorously with a towel as this can cause tangles and break your hair, particularly if it's already dehydrated. I often use a pillowcase to dry my curly locks.  It’s a great way to gently and lightly remove excess moisture.

Follow these three simple steps and you will be well on your way to beautiful, summer hair.

Extending the Life of Your Curls

This blog focuses on how to get a second day out of your curls with out getting them wet the next morning.

Going to bed with dry hair:

1.     If your hair is long enough, put your hair up in a loose ponytail on top of your head. Use a large silk type fabric covered hair tie.

2.     Use twice the amount of product in your hair that day. Try not to break up curls too much or touch it during the day.

3.     Sleep with silk pillowcase.  To keep the curls from frizzing.

4.     Use a shower cap while in the shower.

5.     If you wake up and the underside looks great but the top is questionable I always go for the half up and half down look. Top off with hoop style earrings.

Going to bed with wet hair:

1.     I would not recommend it.

2.     If you have to wet your hair try to diffuse it all the way or partially to keep it from frizzing before you go to sleep.

3.     Sleep with a smooth towel over pillow .

4.     Sleep with it in a loose pony tail( silk fabric) or braid.

I am Valerie Harrison and I believe that if you have curly hair, you are one of the luckiest people in the world.  I love my curly, corkscrew hair and I want to help you love yours.  Each month, my blog will contain helpful tips and strategies for healthy, natural-looking curls. 

To get started managing FRIZZ, here are three basic rules:

First, stop cleansing with harsh shampoos or clarifiers.  You do not need it!  Use a moisturizing conditioner instead.  That’s right.  You do not need to use shampoo.  Conditioner and water is all that is really necessary to cleanse curly hair and keep it looking shiny and beautiful.

Second, when you are cleaning your hair, use your fingertips to massage the conditioner into your scalp, moving in circular motions.

Third, if you feel the need to use shampoo, pick a sulfate-free cleanser and use it only on your scalp.

Try this and you will be well on your way to making your hair your best accessory!

Valerie Harrison is a professional hairstylist and curly hair specialist with over 20 years experience.  She currently works at Salon Studio in Bernardsville, NJ 908.696.0060 or www.thesalonstudio.net.